For Christmas I got a Tension Block and twice a day every day I set a 10 minute timer and every minute on the minute I pull on a 20mm or 10mm edge with one hand for 10 seconds. And then I wait 5 seconds to switch hands and pull for 10 seconds with the other hand and rest until the next minute.
I had been doing some weighted hangboard training as well but pretty soon after starting this routine I stopped doing that and just climbed three times a week.
If I'm feeling good I'll pull pretty hard but if I'm feeling sore or tired I'll treat them more like a stretch or slow warm-up.
A little over one month in I'd say I've seen a small but noticeable in finger strength. It hasn't completely transformed my climbing but I'll definitely keep doing it.
An interesting thing that happened today was that I decided to take Thursday completely off and not do any pulls nor any pulls Friday morning before climbing this afternoon. I felt tired on Wednesday and thought it might be a good time to take a break and seeing what some rest would do. I thought maybe I would see a big increase like I do when I take a total rest day before a workout or a race.
Results were good but a little underwhelming. On Wednesday I had four climbs that I knew I could do but couldn't quite finish. Today I finished three of them so clearly it didn't hurt. The underwhelming part was that, somewhat surprisingly, my fingers felt the most tweaky and injury prone in a long while. There wasn't any pain but there were some twinges and weird things happening and up until today I'd experienced no pain or weirdness whatsoever. There was also a climb that I've been working the longest on that I really expected to get and I kinda went backwards on it a little. My legs are also tired so that might have been a factor as well.
Conclusion: keep doing the pulls. A day of total rest doesn't seem to have a huge positive impact. Maybe try only doing one session instead of two or zero. Also, take the time to warm better if for some reason I have been resting.
Lately I feel like my fingers need very little warm-up. I feel like they never get too cold if I'm doing this twice a day.
Mostly I'm just having fun with my franz tho
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