Monday, October 5, 2026

reflection of climbing training with little importance beyond my own reference

 Conqueror Worm part 2 tonight! glad you liked it crab!

My numbers for pulling on a 20mm edge have been lower than they've been in the past and at first I thought it was because I was just climbing more but I think they might have been higher last year because I was doing more heavy barbell work with weightlifting. I was doing a little bit of deadlifting and also heavy weighted pull-ups and I didn't think that that would translate much to grip strength because I was already climbing but maybe there was something to it. I'd assumed that any work done with a bar or on a big hold wouldn't really translate to crimps because it's not specific enough. I'm not sure what a good analogy would be. Maybe it's like thinking you shouldn't train on a track for cross country because obviously you can go faster on a track but you can't go that fast on a hilly grass cross country cross so why bother. 

Absolute speed built on a track obviously carries over to a cross country course. Yeah you'll slow down but so will everyone else and you'll still most likely be faster with specific training built in. Same thing with hanging on a bar and pulling on a small edge. I guess I thought it would look silly to hang on a bar with heavy weight when everyone else trains on small edges. But that's why I go to the gym in the middle of the day when no one is there. Hehehe.

Oh but part of the reason I had the insight was because over the weekend I did heavy weight pull-ups and then I went to pull on block with the 20mm weight and it felt way lighter than usual. That made me think there was something to it.

So now my new warm-up routine consists of heavy one arm hangs for 20s on the bar or the hangboard jugs and then I'm also trying out doing drops on the rungs of the campus board. So like I'll start on the third rung on the jugs and then drop down to the first rung and then hop my hands back up to the third and repeat. Or today I stuck the drop from the 4th rung to the 1st rung. I've been seeing a lot of success with depth drops and depth jumps to improve my jumping and sprinting and it seems like fast eccentric loading could help with grip strength as well. Based on Jay Schroeder's methods as seen in Freak of Training.

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